Tikog weaver. Basey.

Top quality mats are displayed in several stores around Basey town. But to see them being made, one must head to a cave in the lethargic barangay of Basiao, at Samar’s southern point, an hour and a half ’s drive from Tacloban. Although just off the main highway, I had difficulty finding the exact location. There were no signboards to point the way. Fortunately, the locals were very helpful.

Under the cool shelter of a low-ceilinged rocky overhang, the womenfolk come together almost daily to weave mats from dried, dyed tikog grass. Tikog grass turns brittle and breaks easily in warm temperatures. For weaving, cooler conditions are therefore required. The shade under the cave furnishes the perfect setting.

Weaving entails patience and attention to detail. The weavers deftly intertwine every strand of grass, following established patterns to craft intricate designs. As the work is repetitive and tiresome, the weavers in all likelihood gather and interact to break the monotony. Indeed, I observe them in conversation as they go about their work, their fingers moving almost instinctively, not missing anything. I found them accommodating, good-naturedly entertaining all my questions.

Banig may not have the same prestigious ring as t’nalak cloth or piña. But make no mistake; neither craftsmanship nor quality is second rate.